inputFront and rear suspension of passenger-and-freight UAZ wagon layout, springs and shock absorbers. UAZ car suspension Passive car safety
In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a running UAZ loaf from a real master for a site site.
Any motorist can make repairs front axle UAZ Loaf and UAZ 469 do it yourself. This work is not difficult. Structurally, both of these models are similar. This is especially true for the suspension. The frame construction means easy dismantling of the front axle and high reliability of the vehicle. There are some differences in leaf and spring suspension. But these features do not greatly affect the complexity of the work.Almost no special tools are needed for repairs. All work is carried out with a minimum set of tools available to each driver.
Do-it-yourself repair of the front axle of UAZ Loaf and UAZ 469 uncomplicated. Most often, during operation, it is necessary to carry out various preventive work. As a rule, they do not require removal and dismantling of the bridge. The list of care actions includes:
- Pivots are checked for gaps;
- Threaded connections must be tightened periodically;
- Convergence is checked;
- The requirements of the parts lubrication tables are met.
It is imperative to visually inspect the main components. Special attention is paid to the serviceability of the fastening bolts. All locking elements must also be securely reinforced. Check the maximum steering angle. It should not exceed 28 degrees. If indicators differ from those indicated, adjustment must be made. Also, always check that the pins are properly tightened and functioning. Untimely elimination of minor faults can lead to the need for overhaul of the front axle.
Repair of this unit begins with dismantling the bridge. On a loaf and a "goat", these works are performed identically. There are only minor differences. When performing repair actions, you need to be extremely careful. Removing the bridge consists of a series of simple steps:
- You should start by ensuring that the vehicle is stationary. For this, anti-rollback brake pads are installed;
- Further on the "goat" the brake pipes are disconnected from the hoses. On the Loaf, the tubes have transition pipes. In this case, the hoses are disconnected from the nozzles;
- Remove the nuts securing the lower shock absorber cups. This element is the same on both machines.
- Next, unscrew the bolts connecting the drive gear flange and the front universal joint. Before that you need to fill threaded connection WD-40;
- Remove the thrust from the bipod. The nut on the ball pin is twisted;
- Unscrew the nuts that secure the spring ladders. Disassemble them with overlays;
- They will jack up the frame in front of the car, roll out the bridge.
Some UAZ 469 vehicles are equipped with springs. In this case, the penultimate item will look a little different. The penultimate action removes the anti-roll bar by detaching it from the longitudinal suspension arms. Levers and traverse are unscrewed from the bracket.
Repairs... After disassembly, all parts are washed in gasoline and lubricated. Defective ones are replaced with new ones. The assembly takes place exactly the opposite, while it is necessary to clarify some of the nuances of the process.
When replacing the pivot bushings specifically in the ball bearing, after pressing, they must be tightened to 25 mm. Put grease inside. Do-it-yourself repair of the front axle of UAZ Loaf and UAZ 469 is not so difficult, but accuracy is needed. For example, when installing a ball seal, the ring for it must be impregnated with hot oil. After assembly, the functionality of the bridge is checked using a stand.
UAZ 452 "loaf" is a fairly reliable Soviet four-wheel drive SUV. The main breakdowns of this car are associated with leaks of lubricating fluids from the engine, gearbox (gearbox), front and rear axles, constant velocity joints (CV joints) and hubs. The main reason for the formation of such leaks is that the material from which the original seals and gaskets of the above units are made is partially corroded under the influence of modern lubricating fluids. Due to poor lubrication, moving metal parts wear out and must be replaced periodically. It is necessary at least once a year to carry out preventive maintenance of the UAZ 452, change leaking oil seals and gaskets, and also adjust the clutch.
The problem is that finding a factory manual for these SUVs is quite difficult. Therefore, we bring to your attention an instruction that will allow you to repair a car yourself.
As you know, car engine repair begins with its dismantling. And only then disassembly, replacement of damaged parts and assembly is carried out. Overhaul of a power unit is not an easy task, so it is not worth doing it yourself, without the help of experienced craftsmen. But you can change the oil seals yourself.
The factory repair manual for the UAZ 452 vehicle states: to remove power unit, you need to lift it up from the engine compartment. With this method of dismantling, you need 2 strong pipes (longer than the width of the cab) and the help of 2 people.
That's it, the power unit is removed.
It is easy to check whether an engine overhaul is necessary: \u200b\u200byou need to put your hand to the open oil filler neck of a running engine. If the palm pushes out, then disassembly is required.
Quite often, in UAZ 452 cars, the free travel of the clutch pedal is not adjusted. This leads to increased wear of the driven disc and the need to replace it early. Adjusting the clutch of a UAZ 452 car is quite simple.
Clutch drive design.
- Clutch pedal.
- Brake pedal.
- Springs.
- Oiler.
- Thrust bearing.
- Coupling.
- Clutch spring.
- Lever arm.
- Adjusting bolt.
- Fork.
- Pusher.
- Fork spring.
- Traction.
- Grease nipple.
Clutch Pedal Adjustment
The factory manual for the repair of UAZ wagon-type vehicles sets the following unit parameters:
- the gap between the pressure bearing and the screw heads of the levers - 2.5 mm;
- free pedal travel - 28-35 mm;
- full pedal travel - 145-155 mm.
The clutch is adjusted as follows.
- We measure the free and full travel of the clutch pedal with a ruler.
- Remove the pedal springs and clutch fork.
- Loosen the pusher nut.
- Unscrew or twist the thrust end of the pusher until the recommended parameters are reached.
- We tighten the pusher nut.
- We put the springs back on.
After that, we check the combined and full pedal travel. If they correspond to the recommended parameters, we start the engine and check the operation of the clutch while driving. If it does not drive or skid, the clutch adjustment is complete. If something worries, we repeat the procedure until the desired result is obtained.
The car's suspension consists of four longitudinal semi-elliptical springs, working in conjunction with hydraulic telescopic double-acting shock absorbers (,).
The front springs of cars of the UAZ-31512 family consist of 8 sheets, the rear springs - of 7 or 9 sheets, depending on the configuration.
Front and rear springs of cars of the UAZ-3741 family are identical and interchangeable, they consist of 13 sheets. The fastening of the front and rear springs is similar.
For individual vehicles of the UAZ-31512 family (including all UAZ-3153 vehicles), a front spring suspension () and rear suspension with small leaf springs ().
Small leaf spring consists of 3 sheets (for UAZ-3153 - 4 sheets).
Front and rear shock absorbers () of all vehicles, except vehicles with spring suspension, the same and interchangeable.
On vehicles with front spring suspension and rear with small leaf springs, the front shock absorbers are shorter (by 25 mm).
Shock absorbers with a cylinder diameter of 35 and 40 mm can be installed on cars. It is allowed to install shock absorbers of different dimensions in a complete set along the axes.
Maintenance
Periodically check the condition of the springs, suspension springs and shock absorbers, their fastening and eliminate any faults found.
The leaf springs must not have cracks. The shear of the spring center bolt can cause longitudinal displacement of the sheets, and loosening of the stepladders can cause lateral displacement of the sheets.
To prevent corrosion and eliminate squeaks, lubricate the leaf springs according to the lubrication chart.
Knocks and creaks in the spring ears and hinges indicate wear or incomplete tightening of the rubber bushings or wear of the rubber-metal hinges. In this case, replace the joints and bushings or tighten the bushings more tightly. To increase the tightness in the spring bushings, install rubber spacers (rings) cut from the chamber or similar rubber between them.
Damage to the shock absorbers is a symptom of prolonged rocking of the vehicle after driving over an uneven road.
When servicing the shock absorbers, periodically inspect and timely tighten their fasteners, and also check the condition of the rubber bushings in the ears.
The shock absorber does not require special adjustments during operation.
Dismantle shock absorbers only in the following cases:
- occurrence of non-removable fluid leakage;
- loss of forces of the shock absorber during stretching or compression;
- fluid replacement.
The shock absorber should not be disassembled without special need.
Before disassembling the shock absorber, clean it from dirt, rinse and wipe thoroughly. Disassembly and reassembly operations must be carried out under conditions that ensure complete cleanliness.
After the first 3000 km of run or when fluid leaks through the stuffing box 15 (see) of the rod and O-rings 14.16, tighten the nut 18. Tightening torque 78–98 N · m (8–10 kgf · m). If the leakage does not stop, remove the shock absorber, disassemble, inspect the O-rings and the hole in the rod guide 13. Replace worn-out stem gland, stem guide, reservoir O-rings, etc. Install the rubber seal 15 with the inscription “bottom” on it to the piston.
When installing the oil seal, lubricate the inner surfaces of the stem mating with a shock absorber fluid to reduce wear and prevent squeaking.
Decreased shock absorber performance or failure can be caused by clogged valve systems, valve spring settlement, or broken parts. In such cases, disassemble the shock absorber, wash and replace sagging or broken springs and parts.
Repairs
Removal, disassembly and assembly of springs of vehicles of the UAZ-31512 family
Remove the front spring in the following order:
2. Place the front of the vehicle on the stand.
3. Unscrew the bolts of the bracket 7 and the nut of the axle 16 of the spring lug.
4. Remove the spring 13 and disassemble the shackle with rubber bushings 8.
Install the spring in the reverse order.
Remove and install the rear spring in the same way as the front one. When installing the front and rear springs on the car, the folded ears on the first two sheets should be facing forward.
The final tightening of the spring ladder nuts should be carried out with loaded springs.
2. Bend the spring clamps.
Assemble the spring in the reverse order, taking into account the following:
1. Before reassembly, lubricate the spring leaves according to the lubrication chart.
2. Rivet the clamps securely to the sheets, the ends of the rivets of the clamps should not protrude above the surface of the sheets.
3. The clamps after assembly of the spring should not impede the free movement of the sheets during operation.
4. After assembly, paint the spring.
Features of disassembling the front spring suspension
1. Disconnect the lower shock absorber eyes 22 from the longitudinal rods 1 by unscrewing the nuts and removing the bolts.
2. Raise and place the front of the vehicle on the stand.
3. Remove the springs 12 and vibration damping pads 15.
4. Remove the bumpers fastening bolts 21.
5. Assemble in the reverse order.
Replacement of rubber-metal hinges 3, support bushings 6 of the longitudinal rods and rubber bushings 18, 19 of the stabilizer:
1. Securely secure the vehicle against unintentional movement.
2. Disconnect the lower shock absorber eyes from the longitudinal rods by removing the nuts and bolts.
3. Unscrew the nuts 7 and knock out the bolts securing the longitudinal rod to the axle.
4. Unscrew and unscrew the nuts 8.
5. Unscrew the nuts of the ladders 20 securing the stabilizer to the bar.
6. Remove the longitudinal rods by sliding the rear end of the rod out of the bracket hole on the frame.
7. Remove the bolts securing the stabilizer to the bracket 17.
8. Replace the rubber-metal hinges 3. The hinges are replaced using special mandrels on the pressing equipment. Replace all joints at the same time.
9. Remove bushings 19 from the stabilizer and put on new ones.
10. Replace the bushings 18 and tighten the bolts securing the stabilizer to the bracket 17.
11. Put the washer and the support rubber hinge 6 on the rear end of the rod 1, insert the rod into the hole of the bracket 5, put on the second rubber hinge and washer, tighten the nut 8.
12. Insert the front end of the rod into the bracket 4, install new bolts and tighten the nuts 7.
13. Install the second shaft in the same way.
14. Tighten nuts 7 to a torque of 14–16 kgf · m. Tighten nuts 8 to the stop and cotter them.
15. Install the ladders 20 securing the stabilizer to the bar and tighten the ladder nuts.
16. Connect the bottom shock absorber eyes to the longitudinal rods by inserting the bolts and tightening the nuts.
Replacing the transverse link 2 or rubber-metal joints 9:
1. Remove the bolt and nut securing the tie rod to the axle and frame.
2. Remove the transverse link.
3. Replace the joints, similar to the longitudinal bar joints.
4. Install the tie rod and secure it using new bolts.
5. Tighten the nut and bolt to a torque of 14-16 kgf · m.
Removal, disassembly and assembly of springs of vehicles of the UAZ-3741 family
Remove the springs in the following order:
1. Unscrew the nuts of the stepladders 16 (see) of the springs, remove the stepladders, lining 14 and pad 4 of the spring.
2. Disconnect the lower shock absorber eyelet.
3. Place the front of the vehicle on the stand.
4. Unscrew the bolts securing the bracket covers 1 and 9 and remove the covers.
5. Remove the springs with rubber pads. Install the springs in the reverse order. At the same time, straighten the spring using the special tool (). In the absence of a special device, we recommend installing the spring in the following order:
1. Secure the springs with stepladders to the bridge.
2. Install the spring pads on its ends.
3. Gradually lowering the car onto the axle with springs and directing the springs with a lever, achieve alternate installation of the ends of the spring with cushions in its brackets.
4. Install the bracket covers in place and tighten the bolts of their fastening.
Remove and install the rear spring in the same way as the front one.
Disassemble the spring in the following order:
1. Fasten the spring in a vise at the head of the center bolt.
2. Bend the spring clamps.
3. Unscrew the center bolt nut and disassemble the spring. After disassembling, thoroughly clean the sheets of dirt, rinse in kerosene, replace the broken sheets.
Figure: 4.7) unscrew the reservoir nut.
2. With a slight shaking of the upper end, remove the rod together with the piston from the working cylinder. When doing this, be especially careful not to damage the polished surface of the stem.
3. Remove the slave cylinder from the reservoir and completely drain the shock absorber fluid.
4. Clamp the stem in a vise at the top mounting lug and remove the piston nut. Remove the piston with valve parts, the guide and the oil seal ring.
Wash all parts of the shock absorber in gasoline or kerosene. Carefully inspect the washed and dried parts and identify those that need to be repaired or replaced.
When inspecting valve assembly parts, pay particular attention to the condition of the valve edges. If there are scratches, traces of significant wear and other defects on the obturator surface of the valve or its seat, eliminate them by lapping. Replace valve parts that show cracks and breaks during inspection.
Assemble the shock absorber in the reverse order, taking into account the following:
1. Soak a new polyurethane foam oil seal with shock absorber fluid before installation.
2. Install the rubber stem seal in the yoke so that the bottom is facing the piston. Before installing the stuffing box on the stem, moisten its inner surfaces mating with the stem with shock absorber fluid.
3. Install the slave cylinder with the compression valve assembly pressed into it into the reservoir, then fill in the shock absorber fluid (320 cm 3 - for shock absorbers with a cylinder diameter of 35 mm; 345 cm 3 - with a diameter of 40 mm; 295 cm 3 - for front shock absorbers of cars with spring suspension), while filling the cylinder to the top, and pour the rest of the liquid into the reservoir.
To prime the shock absorbers, use shock absorber fluid according to the lubrication chart. The amount of liquid to be poured must also strictly correspond to the filling volume of the shock absorber. The permissible difference may not be more than ± 5 cm 3. Failure to comply with these recommendations will lead to disruption of the shock absorber and even its failure.
4. Insert the rod with the piston into the slave cylinder, close the cylinder with the guide and then, carefully straightening the reservoir gland along the end of the guide, tighten the reservoir nut.
Bleed the newly assembled shock absorber before putting it on the car, moving the rod until the force becomes constant throughout the stroke. This is necessary to remove air from the cavities of the working cylinder.
The domestic UAZ spring is almost universal for the Patriot, Hunter and Pickup models, as well as their modifications. Elements differ only in the number of sheets that affect the carrying capacity vehicleas well as the difference in geometrical dimensions... In this regard, the four-leaf elements from the "Pickup" and "Cargo" are quite realistic to install on the "Patriot" and "Hunter". The increase in carrying capacity will be about two hundred kilograms. Consider the features of standard and modified parts.
Spring Front Suspension Models
A UAZ spring of this type is produced by the metallurgical plant in Chusovoy. A distinctive feature of the element manufactured by ChMP is the presence of a sticker and a stamp on the tightening clamp. The name of the manufacturer, the date of production of the part, as well as the OTK mark are displayed here.
In addition, each spring is marked with a label, since the brand is not always easy to see. Additional information: barcode, spring number, GOST standard.
Model 31512-2912012
This UAZ spring is a small-leaf rear part, which was mounted as standard on models 31512, 31514-10, 3160. The element is also suitable for Patriots and Hunters, as well as their modifications.
Distinctive characteristics of the node in question:
Standard spring UAZ type 3163-2912010-02
This standard small-leaf element has the following characteristics:
The springs of the UAZ "Patriot" under consideration are also suitable for models 315148, 315143, 315196, "Hunter", "Simbir" and "Cargo". This part differs from the analogue 315112-2912012 in length and tightening clamp, as well as in the presence of spacers between the sheets.
Four-sheet option 3153-2912010
The rear small leaf spring of this type is mounted on the code: 3153, 3159, 3162. The part can be used on models 315148, 315143, "Hunter", "Patriot", 3163, 2362, "Cargo". The modification in question is very popular among car owners from Ulyanovsk manufacturers.
Below are its main parameters:
Modification 3162-2912010
This UAZ spring is a standard part that is mounted on the rear axle of almost all cars of this brand, including Patriot, Bars, Hunter and Cargo. On sale, this spring is quite rare, therefore it is not very popular among owners.
Part characteristics:
Version 2360-2912010
These rear small-leaf springs of the UAZ Patriot have the following characteristics:
- Assembled element weight - 22.3 kg.
- Control load, Pk, daN - 643.75.
- Full / calculated length - 1.41 / 1.35 m.
- Package height - 49.6 mm.
- Steel type - 50HGFA.
- The number of sheets is four.
In the standard layout, the part in question is mounted on the "Cargo", "Patriot", "Pickup", "Hunter", "Simbir" and some others. According to the reviews of the owners, this product is not particularly popular. Users give preference to modifications from four sheets under the index 3153-2912010.
Gain
Often UAZ repair and tuning concerns shock-absorbing devices. The old straight springs on the "Hunter" can be changed to a reinforced sixteen-leaf analogue. As practice shows, the standard elements of this unit do not differ in high quality steel, they quickly deform and crack. Consequently, the modernization of the unit is justified.
After the installation of reinforced springs, the car will become much higher, the power reserve will increase. The car will get slightly stiffer, which is not a significant drawback as we are considering an SUV. But the driving performance and cross-country ability of the vehicle will noticeably delight the owners domestic jeeps... The following is a step-by-step guide to installing new items.
Spring fastening UAZ
Installing a reinforced spring is not too difficult. The work is carried out in the following order:
- The rear of the machine is lifted first until the wheels begin to hang. A safety beam or support must be installed.
- Then the wheel is removed.
- Installation of an additional support under the bridge is in progress. A regular jack is quite suitable for this.
- The ladders and cups of the block are unscrewed.
- The shock absorbing element is removed from the lower mount.
- The bridge descends.
- The old spring is dismantled.
- A new element is being tried on.
- The bridge is lowered to the optimum point for installing a new part.
- The element is placed in bowls located on the frame, the hanging part is supported by a wooden bar, which will not allow the spring to jump out until the final installation.
- A prepared new unit is mounted, secured with stepladders, but has not yet tightened to the stop.
- The bowls are exposed at the same place of installation.
- The bridge is lifted until the springs settle on the pillows.
- The wheel is flanked.
- The lower cups are twisted.
On this, the repair of the UAZ in terms of replacing the springs can be considered ready. In order for the part to be installed to sit in its place better, it is advisable to load the rear of the car during work. After carrying out the work, check the car in action at low speed. If there is no discomfort or squeak, the upgrade was successful.
In conclusion
The parts in question are responsible for the behavior of the car on different types of soil. Unfortunately, domestic standard UAZ-469 springs are not of high quality steel. Therefore, many owners resort to replacing this unit with a reinforced version, since the standard element often breaks and deforms on bumps and potholes. It should be noted that most of the standard springs for Ulyanovsk SUVs are interchangeable, which makes it easier to repair and maintain the car.
SUVs produced by UAZ have gained considerable popularity in the vast expanses of Russia, but many UAZs have one big drawback - a low level of comfort.
- 1 Tuning UAZ "loaf" with your own hands
- 2 Tuning of the UAZ "loaf" salon
- 3 External tuning "Loaf"
- 4 Tuning suspension UAZ Loaf
- 5 Engine tuning UAZ Loaf
Also, cars of the UAZ 452/3303 series are not very convenient in operation, so many car owners are trying to modernize the car, making various improvements to it. Tuning UAZ "loaf" is a relevant topic, interesting to many motorists.
Tuning UAZ "loaf" with your own hands
The UAZ-452 off-road vehicles are distinguished by their remarkable technical characteristics, and the off-road vehicle is practically unrivaled. The UAZ "loaf" is one of those few cars that are in no hurry to be scrapped, very often these cars are restored and tuned. Moreover, almost any units and parts in a car are modernized, from the interior and body, to the power unit, axles and suspension.
Unfortunately, the Ulyanovsk plant did not take too much care of the comfort of the driver and passengers of the SUV, and often the owners of the cars have to bring the UAZ to mind on their own. Another drawback of the "loaf" is instability on the road at a speed of over 90 kilometers per hour, but even here car owners are not lost, they upgrade the suspension, change the castor (wheel angle).
What you can do with your own loaf:
- lift the front and rear suspension;
- install a more powerful and high-torque motor on the car;
- equip the SUV with additional light;
- change civil bridges for the military;
- repaint the body in "metallic", or apply airbrushing;
- tinted side and rear windows;
- change front and rear bumpers;
- complete the car with a winch;
- install a body kit - kangaring, roof rack, stairs to the back door;
- change wheels to larger ones with better tread;
- introduce a pre-heater into the vehicle.
In general, you can still do a lot, the main thing is that you have enough imagination, skill and money for tuning the UAZ "loaf" with your own hands.
Tuning of the UAZ "loaf" salon
Sitting in the "native" seats in the UAZ is extremely inconvenient, and when it comes to tuning the UAZ "loaf" salon, first of all, car owners change the seats in the car. There is no point in modifying the "seats", it is easier to "introduce" seats from some foreign car or Russian passenger car.
But there is one problem - there is very little space in the front passenger and driver's seat, and not all "foreign" seats will fit here. If we consider the "seats" from Russian cars, then the seats from the "Oka", "Nine", "41st Moskvich" will enter the front salon. True, spare parts from Russian cars do not differ in high quality, so it is better to take seats from foreign cars:
- Mitsubishi Delica;
- Honda Civic;
- Toyota RAV4;
- Opel Astra;
- Volkswagen Passat B3.
The seats should not be wide, otherwise they will not fit in the cabin. But this is not the most important thing - it is important that they are not high, then it will be impossible to drive. 
If the car is going on a long trip, such as fishing or hunting, it is important to arrange comfortable sleeping places. Tuning the fishing saloon also provides for the installation of a table at which one could dine during the trip. It is certainly a good idea to have a picnic on the beach, but the weather is not always good, and you can't sit outside in the rain. 
It is equally important to carry out normal lighting in the rear passenger compartment - again, the "native" light leaves much to be desired. But here it should be borne in mind that a large number of interior lampshades "eats up" a lot of electricity, so even a fairly good battery can be easily planted. There is a way out of their position, you need to put LED lights instead of ordinary bulbs, and they have many advantages:
- little electricity is consumed;
- lED bulbs look aesthetically pleasing;
- illuminate LEDs brighter;
- such lamps are much more durable.
There is also a drawback - LEDs are much more expensive, but having installed such lighting once, you can forget about replacing bulbs for a long time. 
Another disadvantage of the UAZ is the scanty standard steering wheel, and many drivers do not like it. You can try replacing the steering wheel with something of a better quality, but there is one problem here - the steering wheel is not easy to pick up on the splines. Many car owners put the steering wheel from "Gazelle", but without alteration it turns out to be too high. Specially adapted steering wheels for UAZ are sold in car dealerships, they are the easiest to change. Another option is to install the steering wheel assembly with the steering column, then everything will definitely fit the mountings. If there is no desire and opportunity to tinker with the steering wheel alteration, you can attach a braid to the rim, it will also fit from the Gazelle.
The UAZ "loaf" dashboard looks rather primitive, and in order to somehow improve it, some car owners paste over the "tidy" with a film. You can also put dashboard from GAZ-3110 or "Gazelle", but there will already be more alterations here. 
External tuning "Loaf"
UAZ 3303 is a very durable and reliable car, however, its body and body parts are subject to corrosion. First of all, the doors, the body frame, the floor begin to rot. If rust has gone along the body, repair is required, and welding is indispensable here. After work, the body of the loaf is treated with a composition of red lead with drying oil; there are also special means for processing body iron.
After welding and straightening work, body painting is required, but painting the car in a standard green color is not interesting. UAZ cars are tuned in different ways, and on the roads you can often see "loaves" tuning:
A body kit plays a significant role in tuning, and it is needed not only for beauty:
- kangaring and power bumpers protect the body from impacts;
- roof rack allows you to unload the car interior, take more cargo with you.
Body kit elements external tuning for UAZ can be bought at car dealerships, the most popular is the products of the RIF company. The factory-made power front bumper can be equipped with a mechanical or electric winch, which is simply necessary in off-road conditions. 
Also, the roof rack is not for beauty, but still I want it to look aesthetically pleasing. To make a nice homemade trunk, you need to have locksmith skills and experience, and without a certain skill, it is still better to buy finished products at car dealerships. The factory expeditionary roof racks are provided with brackets for installing additional light, the factory product is capable of withstanding a load of up to 200-300 kg. In addition to its main task of transporting goods, the trunk also performs additional functions:
- protects the roof from all kinds of damage;
- serves to accommodate additional skylights;
- can carry a spare tire, for this a special mount is provided on the trunk.
Additional light is of considerable importance on the UAZ; moving in the dark without good powerful headlights is quite problematic. Additional light is installed not only on the roof, but also in front, on power bumper (kanguringe). Best to install lED headlights, they have a number of advantages:
- lED lamps serve for a very long time, the service life of lamps is from 25 to 50 thousand hours;
- the lighting is bright, close to natural light;
- lEDs consume very little energy, approximately 10-15 times less than halogen lamps.
But LEDs also have their drawbacks - while lighting devices of this type are still quite expensive, and if the LEDs burn out, you have to change the entire headlight. 
Tuning suspension UAZ Loaf
Some car enthusiasts ask the question - why do you need tuning for off-road, if the UAZ already has very good cross-country ability? Of course, the "loaf" is well adapted to rough terrain, however, it can get bogged down in impassable mud. To make it easier to overcome the roads, the suspension of the UAZ 452/3303/3962 and other modifications is subjected to lifting - with the help of special spacers under the springs, the ground clearance is increased.
It should be noted that to increase the clearance, it is possible to carry out not only a suspension lift, but also from the body itself. In order to raise the body relative to the road, additional spacers are laid between the chassis and the frame. The frame is attached to the body with ten bolts and nuts, but it is sometimes difficult to unscrew the fasteners, since the nuts and bolts become rusty over time, and sometimes it is quite problematic to dismantle them.
It is possible to lift the suspension with the help of additional leaf springs, as well as by installing spacers between the axles and the springs (they also install elongated spring earrings). Car dealerships sell special lifting kits, and you can increase the ground clearance to different heights - 20, 30, 40 and 50 millimeters. But when going to raise the body high relative to the road, it must be borne in mind that in this case the car loses its stability and there is a danger of overturning. 
Tuning of the UAZ Loaf engine
The old UAZ-452 models were equipped with the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant UMZ-451 engine, as well as other modifications of the UMZ internal combustion engine (414/417/4178). Later on UAZ "loaves" there were internal combustion engines of the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant, such as ZMZ-402 (4021) and ZMZ-409. Ulyanovsk motors of the first releases hardly make sense to upgrade, in case of engine failure it is easier to replace it. But ZMZ motors are tuned, and not so rarely.
What should be done to increase the power of the "402" engine in a garage? If the motor has a derated block head 98 mm high (ZMZ-4021), you can mill the cylinder head surface, remove 4 mm. Thus, the engine will be adapted to run on AI-92 gasoline. When assembling piston group it does not hurt to adjust all pistons and connecting rods by weight, the difference between the connecting rod-piston pair in all cylinders by weight should not exceed 5 grams. Also, to reduce friction between the liner and the piston, the piston skirts can be polished with fine emery paper (no. 1000), but this is done when they are not in a hurry to assemble the engine, since it will take a lot of polishing time. It will also be harmless to cut the inlet holes in the manifold with a cutter, as well as in the block head - a few horsepower will be added. 
Some car owners grind cylinder liners for repair pistons +1 mm, although there is also a repair of +1.5 mm on Zavolzhsky 402 engines, only it is quite rare. Liner boring gives a slight increase in cylinder volume, respectively, and power.
The most popular type of modernization of the ZMZ-409 is chip tuning. For this, the firmware is changed in the ICE control unit, which also contributes to the improvement technical characteristics motor, power gain.
Replacing the engine with a more advanced one is also a tuning option, many car owners strive to install a more modern engine, but it does not always have to be of a larger volume. An internal combustion engine with a large volume does not consume fuel too economically, and therefore, often, car owners put a diesel engine on the UAZ, which has two main advantages over a gasoline engine:
- fuel consumption with a diesel engine is noticeably less;
- a diesel internal combustion engine has better traction with the same cylinder volume as a gasoline engine.
Russian diesel engines ZMZ are not highly reliable, therefore imported power units are considered to replace the gasoline engine. Often the following motors are installed on UAZ "loaves":
- TD27 (Nissan, 2.7L);
- OM616 (Mercedes, 2.4L);
- 1KZ (Toyota, 3.0 l).
As a rule, an imported motor is paired with a foreign gearbox and transfer case, so it becomes necessary to fit the units under the axles, to make changes to the suspension. Of course, it is possible to put a modern turbodiesel on the "loaf", for example, Cummins 2.8, but such a power unit is expensive, and it does not tolerate Russian diesel fuel.
UAZ car suspension
Device
The car's suspension consists of four longitudinal semi-elliptical springs, working in conjunction with four double-acting hydraulic piston shock absorbers.
Figure: 1. Front suspension of the UAZ-451M car: 1- front bracket; 2- shock absorber strut; 3 - shock absorber; 4 - rear bracket; 5-rubber pad; 6 - spring clamps; 7 - stepladder; 8 - bridge travel stop buffer; 9 - spring
Figure: 2. Installation of the travel stop belt for the rear spring of the UAZ-451M car:
Shock absorbers are designed to damp vibrations that occur while the vehicle is in motion and to increase the smoothness of its motion.
All UAZ-451M and UAZ-452 vehicles are equipped with springs, the ends of which are fixed in rubber cushions.
For UAZ-451M cars, the front springs have eight sheets, the rear springs have ten sheets.
The same front and rear springs are installed on UAZ-452 vehicles, each of which consists of 14 sheets.
The length of all springs in a straightened state (between the centers of the pillows) is 1200 mm.
To prevent the possibility of the rear end of the rear spring from jumping out while driving without load, a rear axle travel stop belt is installed on cars. Fig, 97 shows the installation of the rear axle limiter of the UAZ-451M car, and Fig. 98 - belt-restraint for 15 UAZ-452 vehicles.
The leaf springs are made of strip steel of a special profile and subjected to heat and shot blasting.
In all vehicles, the front end of the front spring and the rear end of the rear spring are movable.
The front and rear shock absorbers installed on UAZ-451M and UAZ-452 vehicles are the same in design and differ only in the location and length of the levers.
Figure: 3. Front and rear springs of the UAZ-452 car: 1 and 13 - bracket covers; 2 - a rubber spring cushion; 3 - left bracket of the front end of the front spring and the rear end of the rear spring; 4 - spring cup; 5 and 16 - buffer clips; 6- spring buffer; 7 - buffer lining; 8 and 17 - stepladders of the front and rear springs; 9 - front spring pad; 10 - front and rear springs; 11 - upper spring cup; 12 - left bracket of the rear end of the front spring and the front end of the rear spring; 14 - lining of ladders; 15 - rear spring limiter belt; 18- rear spring lining
The shock absorbers are adjusted at the factory and do not require adjustment during operation.
The arrangement of the rear right shock absorber is shown in Fig. four.
Figure: 4. Rear right shock absorber: 1 - shock absorber cylinder cover; 2, 27 and 36 - gaskets; 3 - shock absorber body; 4 - holes for the shock absorber mounting bolt to the frame; 5-roller shock absorber; 6 - top plug; 7 - cam; 8 - stuffing box; 9 and 10 - body bushings; 11 - side plug; 12 - inlet valve; 13 and 16 - pistons: 14 - thrust piston head; 15-plug of the filling hole of the body; 17 - spring of the tightening screw of the pistons; 18 - clamping screw; 19 - shock absorber lever; 20 - plug of the working valve of the compression stroke; 21 - plug of the recoil stroke working valve; 22 - shock absorber strut; 23 - stand pin; 24 - rubber bushing; 25 - bronze bushing; 26 - steel spacer sleeve; 28 - washer; 29 - internal spring; 30 - outer spring; 31 - compression valve stem; 32-sleeve; 33 - recoil valve stem; 34-spring; 35 - washer; 37 - shock absorber strut eyelet; 38 - nut
Maintenance
Springs maintenance. After one TO-1, you need to check the fastening of the springs.
For each TO-2 it is necessary:
- check the condition of the springs and rubber cushions by inspection;
- if significant wear or destruction of the spring cushions is found, they must be replaced with new ones. It is especially necessary to monitor the condition of the cushions of the front springs, since significant wear of the supporting surface of the cushions causes the wheels to wobble and impairs the vehicle's handling;
- evenly tighten the nuts of the spring ladders.
If necessary, when a squeak appears, the springs should be cleaned of dirt and lubricated. For lubrication, jack the front or rear end of the frame so that the wheels do not touch the floor. Pressing the ends of the leaf springs with a screwdriver, put graphite grease in them.
Maintenance of shock absorbers. At each TO-1 check the condition of the shock absorbers. If a leak appears through the gland, tighten the gland nut.
At each TO-2, inspect the condition of the front and rear shock absorbers by inspection and, if necessary, add shock absorber fluid to the lower edge of the filler hole, without removing the shock absorbers from the car. When refilling, you need to detach the shock absorber strut and, shaking the lever, fill in the liquid in small portions.
Tighten the shock absorbers and struts mounting bolts.
Once a year, when performing regular maintenance of TO-2, remove the front and rear shock absorbers, unscrew the valve plugs, remove the valves and rinse with gasoline. Dry the parts before assembly.
When filling with fresh liquid, keep it clean, avoiding the smallest particles of dirt.
Install new 0.8 mm thick aluminum gaskets under the valve plugs. The valves should not be confused.
Do not remove cylinder covers.
After installing the shock absorbers on the frame, drain off excess fluid.
Removal and disassembly of suspension units
To repair the suspension units, they must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled. After disassembling, cleaning and rinsing the parts, check their condition and determine their suitability for further work.
Removing the springs. To remove the spring, place the car on the inspection ditch and perform the following operations:
- set the front (or rear) part of the car on supports, remove the wheel, disconnect and move the shock absorber lever up;
- raise the front (or rear) axle with a jack;
- unscrew the fastening nuts and remove the ladders;
- unscrew the bolts securing the covers of the supports of the front and rear ends of the spring and remove the covers;
- remove the spring together with the rubber cushions.
The springs are installed on the car in the reverse order of removal.
Before installing the springs in the support bodies, the springs must be straightened. For this, a jack or a special device is used.
When installing the springs, pay attention to the position of the cups riveted to the ends of the root sheets; the fully closed cups at the front spring should be located at the front (movable) end and at the rear spring at the rear (movable) end.
Removing shock absorbers. Place the vehicle on the inspection ditch and carry out the following operations.
Front shock absorber:
- unscrew the nut and knock out the lower pin of the shock absorber strut (UAZ-451M car);
- unscrew the lower nut of the shock absorber strut, move the shock absorber lever together with the strut up and remove the cushions and seats of the shock absorber strut cushions;
- unscrew the nut, knock out the shock absorber strut pin and remove the strut.
Rear shock absorber:
- unscrew the nut securing the shock absorber strut eyelet to the rear axle housing bracket, move the shock absorber lever together with the strut up;
- unscrew the nuts of the shock absorber mounting bolts, remove the bolts and remove the shock absorber;
- unscrew the nuts, knock out the fingers and remove the rack and rack eyelet.
Reinstall shock absorbers in the reverse order of removal.
If wear appears in the bushings of the shock absorber lever or the lugs, press out the bushings with a mandrel and replace them with new ones.
Before pressing in the rubber bush, its outer surface, as well as the inner surface of the ear, should be lubricated with liquid soap. Pull the bronze sleeve from the steel one, putting one on top of the other. In this case, grease the inner surface of the bronze sleeve with a thin layer of technical petroleum jelly or solid oil. Press the assembled bushings into the rubber bush.
If the strut is bent, it must be straightened or replaced with a new one.
To connect the shock absorber lever to the strut, install the pin in the strut ear on the side of the hole with a large diameter (9.5 mm).
General instructions
For the assembly of springs. After disassembling and changing defective sheets, assemble the spring following the instructions below.
Before assembling the spring, grease the sheets with graphite grease.
Punch out the threaded end of the spring center bolt or crush it off the end with hammer blows.
The rivet end of the clamp after riveting to the leaf of the spring should not protrude above the surface of the leaf.
Spring clamps after compression should not impede free movement of sheets during spring operation.
After assembling, paint the spring with MS-17 alkyd-styrene enamel.
Tighten the bolts of the spring bracket covers and the nuts of the ladders after the springs settle from the weight of the engine and body installed on the vehicle.
The springs of the UAZ-452 vehicle must be sorted by the size of the deflection boom under a load of 600 kg into two groups:
Group I - deflection arrow 15-25 mm;
Group II - deflection arrow 15-5 mm (marked with green paint on the cup).
The springs deflection boom measurement scheme is shown in Fig. five.
For disassembly and assembly of shock absorbers. In the event of a malfunction in the shock absorber, detach the shock absorber strut as described above and check by hand the force of movement of the shock absorber lever up and down. Movement of the lever without much effort at the beginning, and with further rotation with significant effort, indicates an insufficient amount of shock absorber fluid in the housing.
Moving the lever without great effort from one extreme position to another indicates an almost complete absence of shock absorbing fluid in the housing or a clogged valve.
The reason for the very tight movement of the lever may be damage to shock absorber parts or the appearance of defects in them (deformation, scuffing, cracks).
When disassembling a (partial) shock absorber, keep in mind the following.
In case of partial disassembly, which is possible in a garage, the following can be removed: filler plug, valve plugs and service valves. Do not remove cylinder covers.
When disassembling and assembling shock absorbers, ensure that the workplace is particularly clean and observe the following instructions.
Do not clamp the shock absorber in a vice by the body, as this may deform the cylinder walls. The shock absorber must be bolted to the device (plate, elbow) through the holes in the body, and the device must be fixed in a vice. The shock absorber can also be clamped in a vice by the lever.
When assembling the shock absorber, the valves should not be confused in places in order to avoid incorrect operation of the shock absorber (the recoil stroke valve has one spring, the compression stroke valve has two springs), and it is also not recommended to rearrange the corresponding valves from one shock absorber to another.
Figure: 5. Measuring the boom deflection at the springs
When assembling the shock absorbers to ensure tightness, it is necessary to replace the aluminum gaskets under the valve plugs (part 11-2905092) with new ones. Gasket thickness - 0.8 mm.
The shock absorbers need to be filled with 145 cm3 of shock absorber fluid. The liquid level in the crankcase, in the operating position, must reach the lower edge of the filler hole. When filling with fresh liquid, you need to wiggle the lever until the drop in level stops.
To unscrew the covers of shock absorbers (with holes with five slots), you need to use a special wrench with tabs to avoid damage to the covers and loss of tightness.
It is not recommended to dismantle the lever, roller and cam during disassembly.
It should be borne in mind that at the factory, shock absorber bodies and pistons are sorted into 4 groups according to the size of the cylinder and piston diameters in order to facilitate selection.
The piston must move in the cylinder without binding.
The angle of the total possible rotation of the lever must be at least 70 °.
After assembly, the shock absorber is checked by hand for smoothness and noiselessness of action, tested for tightness by pumping on the stand and adjusted.